The last town we explored in Baja was a cute little community called Los Barriles. It’s a laidback, sleepy town on the East Cape, and a popular spot for windsurfing and fishing. Little did we know at the time, Los Barriles would be our last true stop in Baja California.
After spending some time in the beautiful Cabo Pulmo, we were all feeling the pull to head into town. We needed to restock groceries, take care of some laundry and quite frankly, distance ourselves from some of our fellow Americans. COVID was just starting to rear its ugly head in the U.S., and we all couldn’t help talking non-stop about what we were reading and hearing from family and friends. The emotional toll was too much, and all-consuming.
Our friends Forrest and Annie had previously stayed at Martin Verdugo’s RV Park in Los Barriles, and had sent over some photos when they were there. First of all, the RV park had a pool. Facing the ocean. That was all we needed to see — we headed straight there and got a campsite.
We kept it pretty simple in Los Barriles — and once you visit this small community, you’ll see why it’s so easy to do so. Our first stop after securing a campsite was Pollos Ochoa’s. I had yet to try the tasty, roasted chicken that Steven and the boys had experienced a couple times in Baja without me. Let me just say this — any time you see a roasted chicken spot in Baja, GO! This restaurant in particular was absolutely delicious. We ordered a whole chicken for the four of us, and it came with french fries, macaroni salad and a tomato-based salsa that was to-die-for.
In the mornings, Levi and I made it our daily routine to walk to Caffe Encinalito, an open-air cafe with the most delicious homemade bagels, lattes and smoothies. (I’d give anything to have one of their bagel, egg and cream cheese sandwiches right now!) We’d chat up the expats in between writing for our blog and getting schoolwork done. Some days we’d hang out for 2-3 hours! Levi was pretty stoked to arrive every day, as the owner was working on a little kids’ area.
In the afternoons, we’d meet back up with Steven and Harv, then go swimming at the beachfront pool at Martin’s. It was here that we met fellow travelers and swapped Baja stories.
A day or so after we got to Los Barriles, we saw our favorite white van drive up with the Kraker clan. They came back! We had met Forrest, Annie and their two boys, Collis and Odin, in Bahiá de Los Ángeles. At the time, we had exchanged cell numbers and stayed in touch for the latter half of our Baja travels. We were thrilled to hang out with them again in Cabo Pulmo, and equally as excited to see them drive into Martin’s. Honestly, besides the views and the incredible food, our favorite aspect of Baja was meeting fellow travelers like the Krakers!
At that point, the kids were all inseparable. So us adults did what any right-minded parents would do — we became fast friends. In the late afternoon, the bartender at Martin’s poolside bar would arrive and we’d belly up to the bar for the most delicious (and strongest) margaritas in all of Baja. Afterwards, we’d trek around town in search of dinner. One night, we went to the popular Smokey’s Grill & Cantina. It was close to our campground and kid-friendly. We got the kids some typical fare — chicken strips and french fries — while we doubled down on Butt Stingers. These were bacon-wrapped jalapeños stuffed with cream cheese. They were hot! And delicious.
It was during this stay that the news of the virus really ramped up, leaving Steven & I questioning what we should do. Stay… or leave? At the time, life seemed relatively normal in Baja, but that wasn’t the case for our stateside family and friends. It was an agonizing time for me personally; I felt as though I was on a wild rollercoaster 24/7. Ultimately, we made the decision to head North after nearly a week in this beautiful beachside town. I still miss this place — and Baja in general — so much. The food, the culture and the people left a huge imprint on my heart. Although our Baja travels were cut short due to COVID, we’ll always be dreaming of when we can go back to Baja.
What destinations are on your must-travel list this year?
