After returning from Baja and spending some time with our family, we quickly realized that our goal of traveling to Alaska fizzled out given that we wouldn’t be able to cross the Canadian border. (Thanks, pandemic!) Fortunately, with some research and a will to travel, we decided on another route – one we called the Great Western States Loop. We were determined to travel as safely as possible, minimizing our impact on local resources but still able to see each state’s great natural spaces.
One of the first places we truly explored – not just hunkered down in – was Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. I’ll be honest; I didn’t know much about this area before we decided to go here. At the time, Grand Canyon National Park was closed, so we were seeking out other options that would allow us to spend some time in a remote place – and also get some great hiking and sightseeing in.
Located in Coconino County, Arizona and just south of the Utah state line, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument is 293,689 acres of protected land. You might even know the place without realizing it! Vermilion is home to The Wave, an awe-inspiring, red-and-gold swirling sandstone rock formation that is one of the most highly sought hiking permits in the Southwest. (More on that in a minute.)
As we rounded the Vermilion Cliffs Scenic Highway, our mouths dropped in awe and appreciation for the view before us. The vibrant red rock stood tall before us, unlike anything we had seen before. The sheer magnitude of Vermilion is impressive! It’s hard to believe that this remote and unspoiled place didn’t become a national monument until November 2000!
“[Vermilion Cliffs National Monument] is a geologic treasure, containing a variety of diverse landscapes from the Paria Plateau, Vermilion Cliffs, Coyote Buttes, and Paria Canyon. Elevations range from 3,100 to 7,100 feet. Steep eroded escarpments consisting primarily of sandstone, siltstone, limestone and shale have been deeply eroded for millions of years, exposing hundreds of layers of richly colored rock strata.”
–AllTrails.com
We gave ourselves two days to explore Vermilion Cliffs, although we could’ve stayed much longer. If you’re planning a quick trip like we did, stick around for our hiking and camping recommendations below!
Driving Through The National Monument
Regardless of whether you’re in the area to hike, camp or just take in the views, it’s important to note the road conditions. All of the roads through the monument are unpaved, and most are washboarded or filled with soft sand. Some are easier to access than others, so keep in mind that it can be rough driving out there. Our van is 2WD, but we’ve got some beefy tires that give us more clearance, so we didn’t have too many issues. However there were some areas that we couldn’t access simply because the road required 4WD. The Bureau of Land Management highly recommends carrying a spare tire and extra gas, as resources are severely limited in Vermilion Cliffs.
I should note that you don’t need a permit to drive through the national monument, but keep reading if you plan on hiking one of the monument’s many geological attractions.
Hiking in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
A lot of the best (and most popular) hikes in Vermilion Cliffs require permits, like Coyote Buttes North (aka The Wave), Coyote Butts South and Paria Canyon. Only 20 people per day are allowed in each area, and the number of permits awarded each day depends on the size of the groups that win them.
The Bureau of Land Management allocates permits to Coyote Buttes via a lottery system. Half of the daily permits are awarded via an online lottery, and the other half are allocated via an in-person lottery at the BLM office in Kanab, Utah. Visit the Coyote Buttes Permit Website for detailed information about how the permitting process works. (Given the process and the lengths for many of these natural sites, it’s safe to say that Steven and I will be looking into getting permits for a future, adult-only trip!)
Buckskin Gulch/Wire Pass
Since we’re hiking as a family of four with a dog, we opted for a trail that would give us some great views, but wouldn’t tire out the kids. Buckskin Gulch was a close drive from our campsite, so we gave it a go. While Buckskin Gulch is one of the longest continuous slot canyons in the world, we obviously weren’t going to hike the whole thing.
After hiking a mile in, we stopped for a quick lunch under a tree. Around that time, the boys started chiming in about how tired and hot they were, so Steven offered to take them back to the van while I kept going with Ruby. It was at this time that I totally miscalculated the mileage to the Wire Pass Trailhead, where Steven and the boys would pick Ruby and I up.
In looking at the map, I thought we were only 3.1 miles from the Wire Pass Trailhead, where Steven would meet me. So off Ruby and I went! The hike into the gulch was beautiful… there was no one on the trail except for my girl and I. The soft, sandy red dirt made it a challenge, like hiking on the beach. Eventually, I got to the slot canyon and reveled in the cool air. ?
As I passed through the canyon, I realized that the hike to Wire Pass was MUCH longer than anticipated. I tried not to panic, but I wasn’t as prepared as I usually am since I decided on a whim to go farther. Luckily, just after I said a prayer, I came across four people who told me I wasn’t too far off from the Wire Pass junction. ??
Thinking I was near the end, Ruby and I got to a point in the slot canyon that was blocked by a large boulder. Looking at it every which way, I realized there was no way she and I would make it up and over. Fortunately, a gentleman who saw the exasperation on my face said there was alternative route by climbing up the side of the canyon. So Ruby and I hiked over, and FINALLY after another mile we spotted the van. Never have I been so relieved! All in all, Ruby and I had hiked nearly 8 miles vs. our expected 4.5. Buckskin Gulch/Wire Pass is a fantastic hike that I‘d highly recommend – just be sure to download the offline map on AllTrails before you go! After talking to some fellow hikers at the Wire Pass Trailhead, it’s recommended that you start there vs. at the Buckskin Gulch Trailhead.
You need a permit for day hiking and overnight trips in Paria Canyon and Buckskin Gulch. The fee is $6 per person per day for day hiking and $5 per person per day for overnight trips. If you take your dog, fee is $6 per dog per day for day hiking and $5 per dog per day for overnight trips.
White Pockets Trail
White Pockets is a fantastic 1.5-mile trail with glowing reviews… except that you definitely need a high-clearance vehicle with 4×4. We attempted the road, but quickly turned around after realizing it was a no-go. Based on some of our research – after we got a cell signal, of course – it sounds like you’ll want a dune buggy or ATV to access this trailhead. I’d love to attempt this hike in the future!
Where to Camp in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument
There are plenty of dispersed campsites within Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. How do you know if it’s OK to camp there? Look for an established firepit (usually built out with rocks) off of any of the dirt roads. Additionally, as with ANY place you choose to camp, make sure to follow Leave No Trace principles. There’s nothing worse than driving up to a killer spot, only to find that the campers before you left garbage in their wake. Pack it in, pack it out. Be a responsible steward of the land!
Stateline Campground
We got fairly lucky as we passed through the national monument, scoring the very last site at Stateline Campground. Literally as you drive the tiny stretch of dirt road to this campground, you cross in and out of Arizona and Utah a couple times, hence the name! There are seven free sites available for first-come, first-serve. The campground has a pit toilet, picnic tables and shade structures, but no water. There’s also no trash collection, so whatever you pack in, be prepared to pack out. We found the campsites to be nicely spaced out and surrounded by juniper and piñon trees, with a fantastic view of Coyote Valley.
We found this campground to be a perfect basecamp, especially if you’ll be hiking Buckskin Gulch, Wire Pass or The Wave, as the trailheads for each are close by. And if you’re feeling extra ambitious, Stateline Campground is the beginning of the Arizona Trail, an 800-mile trek that travels through Arizona and ends at the Mexico border!
Other Things to Note Before Your Visit
Visiting Vermilion Cliffs is basically taking a vacay in the boonies – there’s nothing around! Which means that resources are limited. Make sure to stock up on groceries ahead of time, as well as plenty of water. It’s super dry and it can get pretty hot during the last Spring and Summer months. There also isn’t anywhere to get water inside of the National Monument, so keep this in mind before your visit. We ended up stopping in the smallest town ever, Cliff Dwellers, to refill water before heading out to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The town has gas, a small convenience store, lodging and a tiny restaurant, or you can drive an hour to Page, AZ for more resources.
For families traveling to the area, the kiddos can participate in Vermilion Cliffs’ Junior Explorer handbook. You can download and print in advance of your trip here.
While we only stayed for two days, we easily could’ve stuck around for much longer. Vermilion Cliffs is relatively unknown to most travelers, which makes this remote desert wilderness a true hidden gem. This national monument offers up some of the most incredible landscapes in not just Arizona, but the world!
