Let’s get real – besides the gorgeous views and incredible culture, the thing we were looking forward to the most in Baja California was the food. Tacos, ceviche, cervesa… You name it, we wanted to try it. So of course, a lot of our Baja “research” centered on the best places to eat. And what better place to start than in Ensenada. Here were our favorite places to devour delicious food!
La Guerrerense
As far as legendary flavors go, it doesn’t get much better than La Guerrerense. The late Anthony Bourdain, a personal hero of ours, put this place on the map after featuring it on his show, calling it “the best street cart in the world.” Since 1960, this food cart has been serving up delicious ceviche on the street corner right in the heart of Downtown Ensenada. We enjoyed ceviche con mango and a sea urchin ceviche pate. La Guerrerense is also known for its fish tacos, although you should plan to get there early in the day for those. The street cart sells out of those fast every day!
Location: López Mateos and Alvarado, Ensenada
Hours: 10am-4pm, Wednesday-Monday
Carreta de Mariscos Badass Street Food
Let it be known that I am still daydreaming about the food that we enjoyed at Carreta de Mariscos Badass Street Food – it was that good! Although this street cart is technically located between Rosarito and Ensenada, I’d be remiss if I didn’t include this little gem. Located near the small community of La Salina, you might miss it if you’re not looking for it. Carreta de Mariscos Badass Street Food is owned by three brothers and their mother, and specializes in seafood tostadas, cocktail campechano and smoked marlin paté. But if you ask me, the real winners are the Shrimp Poppers. The family stuffs mild peppers with cheese and shrimp, then lightly deep-fried. The stuffed peppers are then served in a bowl of a delicious soy sauce with fresh cucumbers. Trust me when I say that it’s to die for! While we were there, we met another couple who travel to Ensenada about once a month. They always insist on stopping here first for the food, and to catch up with Paco, the charismatic brother who chats the most with patrons. If you’re traveling through this area, buy a Mexican beer at the Oxxo next door, and pull up a seat at this incredible little spot.
Location: Ejido Punta Piedra, Ensenada, Baja California 22765
Hours: Varies — check their Facebook page for more info!
Tacos El Fenix
This popular food cart has been serving fish and shrimp tacos since 1970, and is easily the top recommendation from locals. It’s a delicious, savory street cart that specializes in shrimp and fish tacos. There isn’t any seating, and you can usually find a line. (That’s always a good indication of where you should eat!) We really enjoyed the shrimp tacos here – just add the green salsa conservatively unless you’re a sucker for really hot stuff. Two blocks up the same road, Tacos El Fenix has a larger walk-up restaurant called Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix. Parking is hard to come by at the street cart, so this is a good alternative (and there’s seating available as well).
Location: Av. Espinoza, Ensenada
Hours: 8am-8pm, Monday-Saturday
Mercado de Mariscos
Also referred to as Mercado Negro, Mercado de Mariscos is a fantastic place to witness the variety of seafood available in Ensenada. It’s right across from the docks, and you can find everything from octopus, shrimp and clams, to fish, mussels, abalone and even shark. It’s easily one of the most famous markets in Mexico. Legend has it that this is where the fish taco was born (although we’d later learn in San Felipe that this is highly contested). After perusing the Mercado, there are at least 8 or 9 places to eat within walking distance. Many offer beautiful, colorful Mexican décor with 5-7 types of salsa, crema and other toppings for your meal. We enjoyed yummy shrimp and fish tacos at El Tacomiendo, however Tacos Lily and Mariscos El Norteño are also popular choices.
Location: Miramar 16, Ensenada
Hours: 8am-8pm daily
Cervecería Aguamala
One of Ensenada’s oldest and most famous breweries, Aguamala is a must-stop for any craft beer lover. Made up of shipping containers, this modern and hip brewery offers a variety of beers, like the Sirena pilsner (my personal fave) and Astilero, an imperial IPA. Additionally, the house brewer, Alfredo Viloria, makes two new beers a week for the tasting room. Aguamala also serves up tapas and other snack plates, like carne asada nachos. During our visit, it definitely felt like the place to be!
Location: Mexico 1 Km. 104, Ensenada
Hours: 1pm-Midnight, Tuesday-Saturday; 1pm-9pm, Sunday
When traveling, Steven and I like to sample a variety of well-known or recommended places. A chance to taste some of the best food without overdoing it, if you will. One great way to extend your appetite is to share a meal at one stop, walk around a bit, and then try another. Nearly all of these food carts offer tacos for $25-35 pesos, possibly a bit more for some of the other specialties, but this makes trying a variety of food easy on the wallet. In Downtown Ensenada, you can walk the malecón (the waterfront promenade) to take in this port city. At Plaza Cívica de la Patria, you can find the gigantic Mexican flag waving proudly – which is a trip because when you enter Baja California at the border, you can literally see this same flag. That’s how enormous it is! While you’re there, enjoy the water fountains and snap a photo with the colorful Ensenada sign. Around the corner at Plaza Cívica, there are three large and impressive gold busts of Mexico’s most prominent historical dignitaries: Benito Juárez, the first president of Mexico; Padre Miguel Hidalgo, who began the Mexican revolution; and Venustiano Carranza, the first Mexican president after the revolution.
Although our time in Ensenada was brief, it was the perfect place to start our Baja California culinary experience! Which of these places sound the most appealing to you?
