There are few places better than Mexico, in my opinion – and the island of Holbox confirms this. Recently I won a chance to join a women’s photography retreat with Into the Wild Photo Camp to this gorgeous isla. (I know – pinch me!) We spent six days exploring Holbox, eating and drinking the local fare, enjoying the island vibes, and discovering our inner wild women!
Before I get into everything you need to know about Holbox, I want to thank Hilary Spillane and Wendy Whitacre for graciously sharing some of their gorgeous photography with me for this post. And of course, a tremendous thank you to Wendy for hosting me on this epic vacay!
About Holbox, Quintana Roo, Mexico
I’ll be honest, I had never heard of Holbox before winning this trip! But after zooming in on my Google maps, I knew that this was going to be an incredible destination. First things first — properly pronounced “hol-bosh.” Holbox is a small island located off the north coast of mainland Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula within the Gulf of Mexico. It’s known for its clear blue waters, white sand, relaxed vibe, and incredible foodie scene.
Holbox, which translates to “Black Hole” in Yucatec Maya, is 26 miles long and part of a Mexico’s largest ecological preserve called Yum Balam (Lord Jaguar). The local Maya have prioritized the goal of establishing and enhancing a environmentally-friendly and economically sustainable society, despite outside pressures to overdevelop this beautiful paradise.
When to Visit to Holbox
One of the big draws to Holbox is the moderate weather. Year-round you can expect an average of 85 degrees, however, it’s the rainy season that you need to take into consideration. From January to April, Holbox sees the best weather – which means more tourists. May through October is the hottest season, but also is subject to a lot of rain. With that said, it’s still a fantastic time of the year to visit, just keep in mind that September and October tend to be hurricane season. Many people believe that November and December are the best time to visit as the humidity is lower and the evenings are much cooler.
How to Get to Holbox
Getting to Holbox is an all-day affair, but one that is full of adventure! After I flew into Cancun airport from the States, I met up with my new amigas from the photo camp at the Margaritaville outside of the terminal. (If I may digress for a sec… You may be tempted to get a margarita here, as was I. However, for a small margarita, it’s $35 U.S. dollars! Save your pesos for the island, trust me.)
Wendy, the Into the Wild Photo Camp founder and organizer, arranged for a shuttle pickup through Nativos Holbox, which is the way to go when arriving in Mexico. A shuttle or taxi ride costs around $40-50 U.S. dollars per person, not including the tip. Once we had all the ladies, the shuttle ride is a two-hour trek from the airport to a tiny little coastal town called Chiquila. It’s here in Chiquila that you get on the ferry to Holbox, which is $5-10 U.S. dollars. The ferry takes about 15 minutes to cross the bay. It runs daily with the first voyage starting at 7:30am and the last at 9:30pm.
Upon your arrival in Holbox, there are plenty of taxis waiting to take you to your hotel or villa. The taxis are actually suped up golf carts and gators that have space for your luggage. Because the dirt streets are narrow, most everyone drives around the island in these and there are no cars here except for the occasional bread truck. It costs around $120 pesos ($6 U.S. dollars) to travel from one side of the island to the other.
If you’re planning a trip to Cancun or Tulum, consider spending a day or two exploring this tropical paradise!
Where to Stay in Holbox
There are plenty of posh places to stay in Holbox depending on your desired type of vacay. While I can’t speak to any of the hotels or other Airbnbs, we had a very pleasant stay at Villa El Cielo.
We stayed in a private Airbnb property called Villa El Cielo, which has eight bungalows, a common area, a kitchen/dining area, and a small pool. This villa is only available to book as a group, making it a great place for a family or friends’ trip. (Don’t be shocked by the price tag per night… when you break it down by bungalow, it’s pretty reasonable per night.) The villas are maintained by a local family, which includes room service and baggage delivery.
Villa El Cielo is considered a beachfront property too – you have views of the water from the front bungalows. It’s a one-minute stroll to the beach, where there are reserved lounge chairs exclusively for your group. Additionally, the location is within walking distance from the main night life and excellent restaurants, but also far away enough that you don’t hear any commotion.
Our room was spacious, clean, and well-designed. Two of the eight rooms have king beds, while the other six have two double beds in each room. All rooms have air conditioning, a nice lounge area, as well as a balcony with a hammock. There’s also WiFi that’s mostly accessible from the communal living space.
I would easily stay here again! If you’re not traveling in a large group, I recommend checking out this Holbox hotel guide.
What to Do in Holbox
Once you’ve settled into this gorgeous place, there are plenty of activities to choose from depending on the time of year you’ll be there. It’s an outdoor lover’s paradise!
Relax on the Beach
The beach views are so beautiful that you can’t help but soak it in. And the water is really shallow, so you can wade out into the ocean for days. There’s a sandbar along the island that many people wade out to and walk the length of Holbox during low tide. I recommend waking early to catch the colorful sunrise and stay near the beach for some epic sunsets. Also, there are many places along the beach where you can opt for a massage. These run between $25-$40 U.S. dollars if you book two sessions.
Discover Holbox Street Art
This colorful isla is full of amazing, intricate works of street art practically down every sandy street. You can walk aimlessly all day exploring the streets in search of these vibrant murals!
Shop at the Boutiques
There are tons of great little shops and boutiques all throughout Holbox. Some are very upscale and pricey, while others have beautiful, handcrafted items like pottery, clothing, and décor. Of course, you can always find little tiendas with Holbox clothing, mugs, magnets and more. Many of the shops take credit cards, but keep in mind that a storm or wind can mess with the WiFi. I recommend having dollars or pesos on hand!
Kayak to the Mangroves
There are many tour options in Holbox, including one where you can kayak in the ocean over to the mangroves, which is a protected estuary for over 500 species of birds. We took a three-hour tour via kayak to take in migratory and local wild birds like osprey, heron, and pelicans. But the real draw for the mangroves are the crocodiles! If you’re lucky, you’ll get a chance to spot one or two. We saw one hiding in the mangroves – and it was terrifyingly awesome. Tours include a Spanish/English-speaking guide, water, fruit, and a taxi to the departure location for around $40 U.S. dollars per person. I’ll be honest… the kayak tour is a lot of physical work, but well worth the experience!
Swim with the Whale Sharks
When we got to the island, I was thrilled to see street art and signs with whale sharks everywhere. My family and I had the chance to swim with whale sharks in Baja, and it was a EPIC. Unfortunately, the time frame to swim with whale sharks here is mid-May through mid-September, as Holbox is a migrating ground for these majestic creatures. If you’re planning a trip to Holbox during that time, make sure to book a tour to see the world’s largest fish!
Take a Catamaran Tour
If you want to experience Holbox from the sea, then a catamaran tour on the Tequila is for you. We took ours at sunset, which was breathtaking. The tour includes wine and small appetizers, and the ability to jump into the beautiful water! To book an experience, check out Catamaran Tequila Holbox here.
Experience the Bioluminescence
From May to September, the ocean around Holbox becomes plankton-rich with the rare phenomenon of Bioluminescence. This is TOTALLY worth experiencing if you have never seen this natural wonder before. Ask the locals when the best night to go and be sure to layer on the bug repellent!
Where to Eat in Holbox
Let me tell you — there are SO many great places to eat in Holbox. Thankfully, Wendy made the dining choices on behalf of the retreat! Dining in Holbox was one of my favorite aspects of the trip because you can choose to dine in style or enjoy the local street food. In my opinion, there are no bad choices here!
Parque Central de Holbox
This is the spot to get street food and enjoy the night life! After dark, this area becomes a hotspot for locals and tourists alike. There are tons of street cart options, ranging from al pastor tacos to handmade crepes. If you’re looking for the local fare, this is the place to be.
Luuma
If you’re looking for a lively space to enjoy drinks and contemporary Mexican tapas, then dining at Luuma is a must. They offer a wide variety of artisan cocktails and delicious small bites. We ordered a wide variety from the menu, like the fish croquettes, spring rolls, octopus black empanadas, a cheese board, a seafood board and the vegetable board. Everything was fresh and delicious! Once you’re done with dinner, do NOT skip the dessert. Trust me – you’re going to want to order a passion fruit pie and the choco blue, a rosemary-infused chocolate cake with blue cheese and warm morita chili foam. The desserts were so drool-worthy that we ended up going back twice!
Restaurante & Beach Club Mandarina
Part of Las Casa de Tortugas and owned by the same group that runs Luuma, Mandarina was a routine stop for us on our girls’ retreat. The breakfast here is so damn good! It’s a slow food restaurant, so be prepared to sit back and enjoy the view while your food is prepared. In the morning, Mandarina offers a variety of coffee drinks, as well as matcha, golden and chai lattes and fresh-squeezed juices. While you wait for your main course, be sure to say yes to your server if pastries are offered. Everything is baked fresh every morning – and they are worth giving in to! Our favorite breakfast dishes were the Chilaquiles (get the rojo salsa), the Black Omelette with mushrooms and truffle cream, and the Puff Pastry Sandwich.
We also came here for a late dinner one night, and the food was equally as fantastic. Order a Peanut Colada or Green Fizz to sip on while you peruse the menu, which has a ton of options, like the Tagliatelle with Mushrooms, Braised Pork Belly and the Tiradito de Pescado, a Peruvian style raw fish with passionfruit vinaigrette.
Temoc Tacos & Mezcal
This had to be my favorite breakfast spot while we were in Holbox. Do yourself a favor and just order the Combinación Oaxaueña, a deliciously spicy spin on chicken enchiladas with mole sauce. It was so good that I wish I would have come back here to try lunch and dinner!
Barba Negra
On our first night on the island, we came in pretty late – but Wendy had us covered. She picked up tacos from Barba Negra. These were SO GOOD. Get the shrimp tacos, chicken tacos, and the ceviche!
Sunset Holbox Official
Before or after dining out for lunch or dinner, stop by this quintessential beach bar and grab a swing. If Alejandro is working, tell him I sent you for the mezcal tasting. The vibe here is laidback and a LOT of fun!
Las Nubes de Holbox
We visited this upscale beach club during our stay and loved it! The menu at Las Nubes has something for everyone, including Lobster Risotto, and Fish or Shrimp Tacos. Plus, the margaritas are strong, and the servers are fantastic. Ask for Jaime if you go. He’s the best!
Mantarraya Beach Club
Looking for a chill place to grab some classic Mexican food staples during your beach day, this is your spot. The margaritas and pina coladas are big, and the food servings are too. The Aquacate con Shrimp is flavorful and delish. And don’t forget to order some guacamole and refried beans to enjoy with your tortilla chips!
COVID Requirements for Traveling to/from Holbox
Overall, our experience was incredibly pleasant in Holbox as it pertains to COVID protocols. Be prepared to wear a mask whenever around other people and in shops/restaurants.
This will likely change in the future, but for our stay we did not need a COVID test or proof of vaccination to fly into Mexico. However, on the way back to the United States, you need to provide proof of a negative COVID test within 72 hours (if vaccinated) or 24 hours (if not vaccinated). The U.S. accepts the results of both rapid antigen and PCR tests, and you can get a test done near the Holbox ferry for $25 U.S. dollars. We received our results within 15-30 minutes. Before flying out, your airline will ask you to upload your negative COVID test (and vaccination card if applicable). You can also get tested at the airport prior to your flight. Consult this website for more info before your vacation!
In Summary
If you are looking for something new in Mexico, or just want a chill tropical getaway, put this breathtaking isla on your list. Between the relaxed island vibes, idyllic beaches, beautiful street art, mouthwatering food, and the welcoming locals, Holbox is the perfect getaway destination!
One Comment
Whitney
Amazing review, Alexis!! You nailed it!