Mulegé, a quiet little oasis in Baja Sur, is the perfect place to call home for a few days after soaking in San Ignacio. It’s a charming little town that attracts a lot of expats, snowbirds and travelers, as well as an ideal stop to regroup and resupply before heading to a beautiful beach area called Bahiá Concepíon. ?
About Mulegé
Heroica Mulegé is a colorful colonial town with a vibrant green river, Río Santa Rosalía, and lush greenery everywhere you look. After driving in the desert for miles on Mexico 1, you can’t miss the rows and rows of palm trees lining this community.
In Mulegé, most of the streets within the central plaza are on a one-way grid — so don’t be surprised if you find yourself making a few loops before you find things, including a parking spot! (If you’re traveling with a trailer, be sure to leave that at a campground first before coming into town. Even larger RVs and trucks may have a harder time getting around due to the tight streets and sharp turns.)
What To Do & See in Mulegé
Explore the Historic Plaza Corona
While Mulegé is a very walkable town with many great shops. Starting near the Historic Plaza Corona, it’s worth taking a half day or so to peruse the town, stopping in the small tiendas or grabbing a bite to eat.
More than likely you’ll meet Adolfo and his son Diego at Bahiá Concepíon, but he also has a storefront in Mulegé near the town square called Adolfo’s Tienda. Adolfo is the nicest vendor you’ll meet in Baja, and always has great prices and beautiful handwoven blankets from Oaxaca. It’s worth a stop in his shop to see more of what he has to offer, like hammocks, bracelets, jewelry, tapestries, vibrant dishes and more. (And if you don’t get a chance to peruse Adolfo’s shop, don’t worry — you’ll see him daily at whichever beach you decide to camp at in Bahiá Concepíon!
Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé
After Jesuit Padre Manuel de Basaldúa established a mission in Loreto, he traveled north to Heroica Mulegé, where he founded the fourth mission in Baja California in 1766. It’s a beautiful church that’s easily accessible via Calle Zaragoza, with fantastic views of Mulegé and Río Santa Rosalía.
Museo Histórico de Mulegé
Up on a hill, there’s an old prison that’s infamous in Baja. The old building did indeed house prisoners, but during the day those captive were able to work in town on the honor system. Upon the sound of the conch shell being blown at 6pm, the prisoners were to return for the night. Today, the Museo Histórico stands as the home to several historical artifacts and information on the Mexican-American War. Between 1846-1848, Mulegé locals stood their ground and defended their home against the Americans trying to occupy this region.
Where to Eat in Mulegé
Mulegé Brewing Company
We were introduced to Mulegé Brewing Company by our friend Andy Best — and boy, were we glad to try this place out! You can find burgers, sandwiches, salads and pizza on the menu, which are all really tasty. Our boys dubbed this spot as having the BEST pizza in Baja (which we agree with!). Plus, there is craft beer of course. The staff here are all very friendly, and the WiFi is great if you need a spot to get some work done or check in with loved ones at home.
Histórico Las Casitas
I found Histórico Las Casitas out of necessity when I was looking for a spot to work after my go-to, Magos Coffee and Sweets, closed during the pandemic. Twice a week, I’d come to Las Casitas to enjoy a delicious breakfast (I recommend the chilaquiles) and power through my freelance duties. I absolutely love this place for several reasons. First, it’s a quiet, relaxed place in the mornings, which makes it conducive for writing or Zoom calls with their solid WiFi connection. Secondly, the food is outstanding. The breakfast portions are massive, with most meals coming with a side of beans and a large side of fruit. Third, the staff at Las Casitas are always very kind and accommodating, even going as far to help me find electrical outlets when I need to plug in. And finally, there is a tranquil outdoor garden that is a beautiful spot to enjoy your meal. I cannot recommend this place enough!
Asadero Dany’s
While we’ve tried several taco stands within Centro Mulegé, none compare to Asadero Dany’s. It’s a small, no-frills restaurant that serves pescado, camarones, carne asada and pollo tacos, as well as quesadillas, with all of the fixings. The owners are friendly, and the prices are right (about $6 U.S. dollars for four tacos and a drink).
Birrotes Everybody
Across the street from Huerta Don Chano’s, you’ll find a basic, nondescript taco stand along the river. Do yourself a favor — stop and eat here! The owners are a Canadian and Mexican couple that dish up super fresh ceviche, as well as fish and shrimp tacos. They also make their own salsa macha, which is basically an oil-based salsa with dried chiles. It’s spicy AF but a must if you want a kick!
El Candil
El Candil is a popular food joint with the gringos. Which basically just means that there was American food on the menu! While the food here is subpar at best, El Candil is known for its margaritas — which are SUPER strong. Proceed with caution if you decide to go for round two!
Where to Camp
Huerta Don Chano’s
We decided to stay at Huerta Don Chano’s this past year for a couple of reasons. Our friends Rove & Swig had recommended it for its central location and decent WiFi. We also liked the price — $200 pesos (~$10 U.S. dollars) for a semi-private campsite and showers.
Camping at Huerta Don Chano’s feels like you’re staying in the Garden of Eden. It’s only a mile from the town and the beach, and is located right along the river. Although it feels relatively small, there are plenty of sites surrounded by palm trees, fruit trees, grass and colorful flowers. The caretaker, Jesus, will lead you to an open site based on your needs. He’s pretty relaxed about when you pay, and will swing by at some point during your stay. It’s mostly quiet during the day and night, especially if you’re situated towards the back of the campground.
While there are hot showers here at Don Chano’s, the shower rooms leave a lot to be desired. I’m not certain that these have ever been cleaned! If they put just a bit of effort into cleaning these facilities, this would be the ideal place to camp while in Mulegé.
There’s also a common area, where you can find a collection of used books and tables to work from. This is the best spot at camp to catch the WiFi signal. In 2021, the owners converted this space into a little restaurant. While we haven’t tried it, word on the calle is that it’s just ok. I don’t think it was a necessary addition, but given the limited amount of restaurants that are in Mulegé, I can see why they opened.
If you’re in a large trailer, I recommend calling in advance to ensure that there is a spot for you, as well as get directions on how to navigate your way in. You can also get a great deal on a monthly rate — around $300 U.S. dollars — and that can come with an established palapa and picnic table.
Hacienda la Habana
We were pleasantly surprised as we drove into Hacienda la Habana. The reviews on iOverlander called this place a lush green oasis — a dramatically different landscape than where we had been previously. It was immediately easy to see that the grounds are well-cared for, and that this would be a fantastic place to stay while in Mulegé.
Surrounded by agriculture, Hacienda la Habana reminded us of a piece of home. We’re from California’s Central Valley, so crop fields and orchard trees are familiar territory. There’s plenty of space between dry camping and RV hookups, and all of it is on grass (which is a nice change from dirt floors at most places).
Hacienda la Habana is only a two-mile drive from Mulegé, so it’s an ideal location for those looking for tranquil nights and downtown exploration during the day (or vice versa).
Upon our arrival in 2020, the owner Fabi came to greet us. She gave us a quick tour and rundown of the facilities available. The campground has tons of orange trees, and the owner welcomes guests to pick their own. There’s a small table near the main home where you can squeeze your own juice. Levi and Harvey thought this was the coolest, and loved roping anyone and everyone into helping them!
Restroom and shower facilities are always a mixed bag in Baja. At first glance, the bathroom and shower situation look fantastic. The only problem? There’s one bathroom (with the shower adjoined to it) for the entire campground. So if you gotta go, and someone is showering, you’re stuck. Most RVers won’t need the restroom, but for us van lifers, it’s critical! There were only a handful of times where we needed to wait it out. But — there’s hot water and great water pressure for the shower, which is a huge plus.
There also was an area near the RV hookups for WiFi. No matter how often I tried, I could never get a connection. Not a huge issue for us as we’re not WiFi-dependent, but this could be a deal-breaker for any travelers who work on the road. (For the record, it didn’t seem like any of the RVers had issues connecting — but I believe a majority if not all have a signal booster.)
One of the biggest reasons we settled on Hacienda la Habana vs. the other campground in town, Don Chano’s, is the pool. A pool?! We were so excited to surprise the kids with this, but didn’t realize that it would only be available during certain seasons. (If your kids are like ours, it doesn’t matter what time of the year it is — they wanna swim!) Fortunately, the last day we were there the temps got high enough for the owner to fill up the pool. The kids waited patiently all morning long, and eventually there was enough water for them to hop in. They were in heaven!
(One quick note about the pool. It’s VERY deep. Without the water, it’s a major hazard for little ones. We were warned by Fabi to always keep an eye on the kids before and after there was water, but it would be wise for them to install a childproof cover. It made me so nervous, and I’m typically a free-range parent.)
While we didn’t take advantage of this, you can buy fresh veggies from the farmer just a short walk down the dirt road. On occasion, vendors will swing through the campground with baked goods and other food items. We shared a delicious banana bread with our van neighbors Sarah and Andy!
It’s $290 pesos (or $17) a night to dry camp at Hacienda la Habana.
Overall, this is a sweet spot to camp for a day or two if you’re looking to explore Mulegé or stock up before Bahiá Concepcíon.
Final Thoughts on Mulegé
Although the tacos, warm temps and beach views compelled us to explore Baja in the first place, Mulegé is a great spot to meet new folks along the way, which has always been a memorable part of our journey. Whether you’re taking advantage of Mulegé as a place to stock up and
